Saipan, Commonwealth Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI)

February 19, 2024

Saipan is the largest of the Northern Mariana Islands, a U.S. commonwealth in the Western Pacific. The native people are Carolinian and Chamorro. There is significant Spanish influence because Magellan arrived in 1521 and the islands became Spanish colonies. is in the Guiness Book of World Records for having the most similar temperature every day.

Saipan played a crucial role in the Pacific Theater in WWII. One of the largest amphibious landings in the world occurred here in June 1944 within a few hours of D Day in Normandy. We learn and hear about European landings but not as much as the Pacific ones. Here is an interesting comparison of the 2 landings: https://www.usni.org/magazines/naval-history-magazine/2019/june/tale-two-invasions

The Enola Day left Tinian (a small island you can see from Saipan) to drop the atomic bomb on Hiroshima.

There are also many reports that the Japanese captured Amelia Earhart and her navigator and held them in a jail on the island. She reportedly died of dysentery and he was beheaded. There is a documentary about this: https://www.discoversaipan.com/amelia Our lecturer, Joel, met many people on Saipan in the 1960s who had encountered Amelia. He has no idea why disconnected people would all tell a similar lie so he tends to believe the witnesses.

Today we had an informative and fun tour with Walt, a Jamaican, New York, Saipan transplant. Here is his link: https://www.discoversaipan.com/ There were about 20 of us travelling with Walt and crew.

Started the day at the American Memorial Park which honors the Americans who fought in the Pacific. It is part of the National Park System, We saw a movie and strolled through several exhibits.

Then to Red Beach, a landing site, and saw Sherman Tank Lagoon.

We then went to a Chamorro Village Seafaring project. Our driver was one of the Chamorro volunteer boat builders using the old methods. He provided information such as, they use breadfruit sap to seal the seams and waterproof the boat.

Next was stop at the home of a Carolinian, schooled in ancient navigation and herbal healing. He shared stories of his culture, especially funeral practices. One of the major healing foods is coconut products. His niece was one of our tour guides.

Then Coral Ocean Point where we could see Tinian. Lunch was at Herman's Bakery. Young Herman was hired by the US Military to bake for the Japanese and native people prisoners in 1944. When the US left they turned over all the baking equipment to Herman. The bakery is the oldest business in Saipan. We had a delicious Chamorro spiced chicken wrap and a coconut candy for dessert. The operation is run by his grandson.

On the way to Forbidden Island our van broke down. Our guide Walt had left his phone in our van. Luckily, we had Joel's number and called him in the other van to advise Walt of our troubles. The other van returned for us and off we went. Forbidden island is a sacred place to the locals.

As the US moved steadily across the island, the Japanese and natives fled north. As the US approached, the Japanese commander committed seppuku and ordered every soldier to kill 7 Americans before they were killed. It was a very bloody battle. At the end many Japanese and natives were terrified because they had been brainwashed to believe that the Americans would torture and rape them. Many civilians, including mothers holding children, jumped to their death from Banzai Cliff or Suicide Cliff.

A beautiful view of Bird Island.

Last Command Post where the Japanese plotted their defensive strategy. A shell from a US ship blew out one side and exited on the other side.

The Japanese jail where Amelia and her navigator may have been held.

Stop in town for a quick shop and a disastrous beer stop. Jim had asked Walt about a local beer and walt said we had time for a quick stop. To save time walt said he would run in the bar and grab one for Jim. Another passenger jumped in front of Walt and bought all the local beers in the place (3) for he and his wife.

Fred, Look how many linemen it took to replace you!