Naha, Okinawa, Japan

Sea Date February 24, 2024

Naha is the capital and largest city in Okinawa Prefecture (State) of Japan. Another day, another tour I arranged - the same G 8 as yesterday.

Today we had the extraordinarily helpful tour guide, Suiko. Today our tour concentrated on WWII history. Okinawa was essential to the US battle plan. The US military believed they would need to invade and conquer Japan to end the war. Okinawa would be essential for a base of operation and supply lines. The Japanese were determined to hold Okinawa Islands in order to protect home, and, more importantly, the Emperor. Okinawa was not a recently obtained territory in the war, but a long time part of Japan. The citizens considered themselves part of the Empire and had been brainwashed to die for the country and Emperor and to defend the homeland. They, too, were convinced the Americans were devils who would torture them. The battle for Okinawa resulted in the deaths of 200,000 people - most of them Okinawan civilians.

Our same group of 8. We started the day at the Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters. I have been to Churchill's underground war rooms - now the Japanese bunkers. The US found the bunkers and killed most of the soldiers exiting. Many died in the bunker. The US did not really go back into the bunkers after they were secured. It was almost 8 years before the Okinawans were able to go in and start reclaiming bones for identification. There was almost nothing left intact so a very different experience from London. The Navy Commander committed suicide here. Before he died, he sent a telegram to headquarters announcing the hopeless situation and asked Japan to care for the Okinawan people. He is shown respect in this country for his kind words about them. There is an annual ceremony of remembrance of him; his wife and son attended for many years.

Himeyuri Peace Museum is dedicated to the 227 high school girls from this school who were killed in the Battle of Okinawa; only 13 survived. They volunteered to help with wounded Japanese soldiers but were forced into many other dangerous tasks by the Army Commander. The locals are still angered by this action.

Peace Memorial Park was built as a place to remember the dead and to pray for peace. Inspired by the Vietnam Memorial, every person who died on Okinawa Island, soldier or civilian, from every country, has their name listed on the black stone walls.

Next to an amusement park, cave system, entertainment center, craft center and BREWERY! It is Okinawa World and Gyokusendo Cave. We saw a very entertaining Okinawa show of a shisa dancing and drummers. The shisa is the symbol of Okinawa, half-dog, half-lion. They guard you and protect you from evil spirits. They are on your roof or entryway. Jim bought snake liquor - more comments in the future.

Oh, what a night! Ten of us had signed up for a pub crawl but we had received rejection letters this morning - tour too full. So, throughout the day, I worked with Shiko on finding a replacement. She made reservations for us at Angama Restaurant. She wrote the Japanese characters on a sheet of paper to hand the taxi driver. Jim and I, Sheryl and Lydia, Karen, Tom and Monica, Captain Frank and Alexandria headed out for a night on the town. (We felt quite honored because the President of Holland America had arrived on the ship that morning and Frank was out with us!) We went to a very authentic Japanese restaurant with local musicians playing traditional Okinawan music. We were in a room with all locals. We tried to follow their lead and participate appropriately. First up, shoes off, butts on the floor pillows. Ordering was easy with an ipad with English but we still were not exactly sure what we were getting. Good food, great cold beer, ok drinks, upbeat music and fabulous fun. The cost for $10 cover charge, about 20 drinks and 27 plates of food: $34 a person!

Next our guide recommended the Irish Pub. - Smuggler's Cove. Harry Potter movie was playing with Japanese subtitles, of course. We signed a dollar and hung it on the wall. Guinness was served with the shamrock in the foam. Lots more cold beers and other thirst quenchers. We all slept well.

View of South China Sea