Alter Do Chao, Brazil

Sea Date January 12, 2024

Alter Do Chao is a small town on the Amazon. I had signed up for a tour with Gil Serife - a very famous tour guide in the area. He is quite a character. His grandfather was a Jewish Moroccan trader who settled in the area in the 1800s. The grandfather sold rubber tree seeds from Boim to Henry Wickham. Henry was the first person to successfully export a large, viable shipment of, smuggled, Brazilian rubber seeds to the British Empire.The British created rubber plantations in Southeast Asia using Wickham's seeds. The resulting plantations brought about the end of the Amazon rubber boom. According to Gil, very famous rabbis have visited his family to thank them for helping to end the Holocaust. The rabbis said the rubber from Southeast Asia seriously contributed to the Allies victory which ended the Holocaust. However, to Brazilians this was viewed as one of the greatest biological thefts of all time.

Before our trip, I read a book, Fordlandia, by Greg Grandin. (Gil was a contributor.) It is the story of Henry's Ford attempt to control Mother Nature and plant a rubber plantation to increase rubber from the Amazon so he could control costs and not pay the monopolistic prices of British rubber. He tried to use the assembly line concept in the jungle. He built 2 towns - Fordlandia and Belterra, based on mid-western small towns. All houses were white with green shutters and trim, He built a park with a gazebo and several churches. The rubber production failed for many reasons and the land was turned over to the Brazilian government. The remnants of Belterra still stand. We drove through the town.

Next off to the Tapajos National Forest in order to hike in a pristine rainforest. We saw many unique items in the forest. We had a Portuguese speaking guide and an interpreter.

At the end of the hike we went to Terra Rica, an area inside the park that belonged to Gil's matriarchal family before the park was created in the 70s. It was a disaster according to Gil.

The park is heavily under logging currently!

After visiting the park, we drove back to Alter do Chao, down the hill to reach Gil's 2000 square metre property. According to Gil it is located at the nicest place of the village that was chosen by the Guardian as one of the most beautiful in his country. It is a slice of a huge property previously owned by The Waughon family, one of the many Confederate families that moved to Santarem after the American Civil War. We enjoyed the view and the snacks, fruits and nuts,

Another book I read is The Thief at the End of the World by Joe Jackson. Gil is credited in this book. It is the story of Henry Wickham.

We were not able to spend time relaxing at the beach but we did see others enjoying themselves.. Alter Do Chao is a resort town very popular with the locals. Beautiful beaches on the Tapajos River.

Another fabulous entertainment evening with Chris Ritchie.

Belterra, Ford's town.